The Yakoun River on Haida Gwaii is one of the most productive river systems on Haida Gwaii and is home to record-sized Sitka spruce trees. Industrial logging has had major impacts on the valley, however. Over the past century, massive, sprawling clearcuts removed vast swaths of ancient forests that once grew to a size and scale hard to comprehend. On a 2025 trip to the region, AFA photographer TJ Watt had the chance to explore some incredible remnant groves along the Yakoun. We hope you enjoy some of his photos and descriptions below!
Yakoun River Spruce Meadow
Stepping into this Sitka spruce meadow on Haida Gwaii felt like entering a vast golden hall, where giant trees rose like ancient pillars above grassy glades. Hundreds of massive, moss-cloaked trunks glowed in every direction. I’ve never seen anything quite as unique or beautiful as this grove.
This naturally park-like forest formed on a broad river floodplain terrace shaped by centuries of gentle flooding. Nutrient-rich soils and periodic scouring keep the understory open, allowing sedges, mosses, and grasses to flourish instead. Many of the trees here soar over 230 ft (70 m) and more than 10 ft (3 m) across — products of an incredibly rich alluvial site that’s among the most productive spruce-growing conditions on the entire coast. The forest’s stats were truly off the charts.
I first found this grove while scanning satellite imagery for areas to explore on my fall visit. The Yakoun River was logged heavily throughout the 20th century, erasing what would have been some of the greatest Sitka spruce forests on Earth. In the final slide, a 1964 aerial photo shows clearcuts already encroaching on this forest from all sides. Most of those giants are gone now. But somehow, this grove survived. It’s a rare glimpse of the once-grand forests that stood here, and a place that deserves to stand for centuries more.
Yakoun Spruce Grove continued
Just upstream from the spruce meadow, the glades of grass disappeared, but the stands of giant spruce continued. The star of this grove was a monumental pillar-like spruce, some 10 feet (3 meters) wide and 250 feet (76 meters) tall. To look around and see so many massive trunks surrounding you in every direction was surreal. Forests like this are as rare as rhinos today. Though the 45-minute hike in was relatively easy, taking a different route out turned into a nightmare of navigating a kilometre of blowdown trees in the rain that nearly had me going in circles before dark – yikes! The things we do to see trees…
Bridge Junction Grove
After camping alongside the bridge over the Yakoun River along East Yakoun Main, I next explored a small but very impressive stand of Sitka spruce that escaped the early logging days. The light was gorgeous, pouring in through the canopy and creating sunbeams in the mist. The forest is fairly easy to access if you’re looking to do some off-trail exploration, with a riverside campsite nearby.
Phantom Creek Old-Growth
A short hike off Queen Charlotte Mainline along Phantom Creek, which flows into the Yakoun River, led to a pocket of incredible old-growth Sitka spruce. The highlight of the grove was a spruce with a massive burl on its side. Truly a spectacular sight to see! I wanted to explore further down the creek, but ran out of time before dark. This is a relatively accessible area for those comfortable going off-trail. There is a foot path/animal trail that parallels the river from near the bridge.
Thanks to the leadership and long-term conservation vision of the Haida Nation, more than 50% of Haida Gwaii is now protected, with a significant portion under strong, legislated safeguards. From ancient spruce floodplains and inland rainforests to rugged coastal ecosystems, entire landscapes have been conserved through Haida-led stewardship and landmark agreements. These efforts have set a powerful benchmark for Indigenous-led conservation in British Columbia. While some old-growth forests along the Yakoun River remain unprotected today, Haida Gwaii stands as one of the most protected large landscapes on the coast — a model for how nations preserve ecosystems, culture, wildlife, and future generations.